Monday, July 29, 2013
Wallonia
The three weeks spent in Mons gave us a good opportunity to visit La Wallonie - the French part of Belgium. It was wonderful to be able to get in the car and drive short distances to all sorts of treasures: chateaux, belfry towers, mediaeval cities, war memorials and battle sites, Van Gogh and other art museums. This region is a veritable treasure trove of the ages and I feel very lucky to have had the opportunity for an extended stay here and to be able to meet such wonderful, friendly people. Oh yeah, the beer, waffles, mussels and fries are pretty awesome too!
Thursday, July 25, 2013
Mons - a wonderful place to spend 3 weeks!
In the heart of the French part of Belgium, is the city of Mons. Located about 1 hour south of Belgium and 2 hours east of Paris, this city has one of the best universities in the country and it was here that I was lucky enough to work and study for three weeks.
I was awarded a grant to study the language and culture of Belgium, and in particular to look at the language similarities with Quebec. The Universite de Mons is particularly reputed in Europe for its language and translation faculties and research. In fact, it was here that the language teaching method verbale-tonale was created and each year many language teachers come here to learn about it. While I was here, I had the opportunity to sit in on one of their sessions; it was very interesting.
There were also some American university students learning French and some European Union diplomats learning French language and culture. So, there was a lot going on! I had the chance to take classes in Belgian history, literature and culture - what an excellent experience! Mons is very much a gem in the Francophone part of Belgium and is set to become a European City of Culture in 2015. The city's patron saint - Sainte Waudru - built a convent here in 649 AD and gothic church built in 1449 is dedicated to here. They have a particularly special free standing belfry that is being fixed up for the 2015 celebrations. Each year, they celebrate the legend of St George and the dragon, which has become their "national" holiday in the Spring.
We were lodged in a wonderful apartment/hotel about 5-7 mins from the university and since we had a car, we were able to explore a great deal of this region.
I was awarded a grant to study the language and culture of Belgium, and in particular to look at the language similarities with Quebec. The Universite de Mons is particularly reputed in Europe for its language and translation faculties and research. In fact, it was here that the language teaching method verbale-tonale was created and each year many language teachers come here to learn about it. While I was here, I had the opportunity to sit in on one of their sessions; it was very interesting.
There were also some American university students learning French and some European Union diplomats learning French language and culture. So, there was a lot going on! I had the chance to take classes in Belgian history, literature and culture - what an excellent experience! Mons is very much a gem in the Francophone part of Belgium and is set to become a European City of Culture in 2015. The city's patron saint - Sainte Waudru - built a convent here in 649 AD and gothic church built in 1449 is dedicated to here. They have a particularly special free standing belfry that is being fixed up for the 2015 celebrations. Each year, they celebrate the legend of St George and the dragon, which has become their "national" holiday in the Spring.
We were lodged in a wonderful apartment/hotel about 5-7 mins from the university and since we had a car, we were able to explore a great deal of this region.
Thursday, July 18, 2013
Waterloo
One of the most famous battles in the world, the site of Napoleon's final battle is located just south of Brussels. It was very nice to "cross over" into the French part of Brussels and be able to understand and communicate fluently. The outcome of this war in 1815 forever changed the course of European history and provided a positive outlook for the future with united allies.
La Butte du Lion (the Lion's Mound) stands today as a symbol of a peaceful united Europe and was man-made using dirt from the actual battlefields. Visitors are invited to climb the over 200 stairs to the summit that overlooks the sites of the battle that would ultimately result in Napoleon's final exile. I decided to bear down and make the hike up the stairs (how could I not?) despite my eye issues and a rather profound dislike of stairs!
In addition to the Butte, there is a wax museum and animated panorama of the battles and strategy. An awesome site indeed.
La Butte du Lion (the Lion's Mound) stands today as a symbol of a peaceful united Europe and was man-made using dirt from the actual battlefields. Visitors are invited to climb the over 200 stairs to the summit that overlooks the sites of the battle that would ultimately result in Napoleon's final exile. I decided to bear down and make the hike up the stairs (how could I not?) despite my eye issues and a rather profound dislike of stairs!
In addition to the Butte, there is a wax museum and animated panorama of the battles and strategy. An awesome site indeed.
Ypres (Iepers)
No self-respecting Canadian can come to Belgium without going to Ypres. It was here during WWI, that John McCrae, a Canadian military doctor, composed his famous poem "In Flanders Fields". Every year on November 11 we recite this poem and it plays over the radio and TV along with the Remembrance Day ceremonies. It was very moving to visit this city which has enshrined military cemeteries alongside everyday life. There is a wonderful WWI museum which was very detailed and haunting. In addition to the poppy wreaths and testimonials, we were able to see a few Canadian headstones.
Belgium certainly suffered during both WWI and WWII under German occupation both times. Monuments and memorials abound in both the Flemish and French parts of the country. We had visited the WWII Normandy beaches and cemeteries when we were in France in 2010 and were certainly moved by the experience. However, we were very touched by the quiet dignity of these smaller cemeteries in their non-hyped atmosphere. We were the only ones walking through the headstones contemplating what it must have been like to be 19 years old, far from your home in Canada and fighting an impossible war in 1914, in this small country surrounded by enemy fire. Real traces still linger as there are apparently thousands of unexploded shells buried underground from this war...
Monday, July 15, 2013
Bruges
The jewel in the crown of Flanders is Bruges. Bruges originated in the 9th century as a fortress to defend the coast against the Vikings. It was dominated by the French and then the Dukes of Burgundy and became one of Europe's most sophisticated and international cities, famed for its luxury and extravagance. Today it is known as the Venice of the north.
With canals running through it; gingerbread houses, the grand square, museums, art galleries and quaint shops and restaurants, it's easy to see why Bruges is one of the most visited cities in Belgium, very much like a fairy tale.
In 2008 a film was made starring Colin Farrell as a hitman called In Bruges. We watched it before leaving the US and it was great to see all of the sights come to life. Although, because the movie was quite dark and the characters kept referring to the city as "F-ing Bruges", I was trying to get certain images out of my mind as we walked the street!! A good film, but not for family viewing...
With canals running through it; gingerbread houses, the grand square, museums, art galleries and quaint shops and restaurants, it's easy to see why Bruges is one of the most visited cities in Belgium, very much like a fairy tale.
In 2008 a film was made starring Colin Farrell as a hitman called In Bruges. We watched it before leaving the US and it was great to see all of the sights come to life. Although, because the movie was quite dark and the characters kept referring to the city as "F-ing Bruges", I was trying to get certain images out of my mind as we walked the street!! A good film, but not for family viewing...
Friday, July 12, 2013
Oostende
We wanted to travel to the Belgian coast and see the North Sea. Oostende is the biggest seaside resort in Belgium and I'd seen it featured in a few French movies (in particular, Place Vendome with Catherine Deneuve and Alain Delon one of my favourites!) so this seemed like a good stop to make. You can take ferries to England from here (it's one of several ports in Northern France and Belgium that you can travel by boat to Dover), and you can also take a train or boat to Antwerp.
We enjoyed walking on the boardwalk; it was a chilly day, no one was swimming, but it was very nice to be at the ocean and to eat some wonderful, fresh-caught seafood. The fishmongers had prepared some escargot soup and small servings of shrimp, lobster, scallops and sauce, ready to eat right there. Quite a few people were also enjoying this for lunch and the seagulls were diving and stealing people's food! We were lucky, we were able to keep ours for ourselves.
We enjoyed walking on the boardwalk; it was a chilly day, no one was swimming, but it was very nice to be at the ocean and to eat some wonderful, fresh-caught seafood. The fishmongers had prepared some escargot soup and small servings of shrimp, lobster, scallops and sauce, ready to eat right there. Quite a few people were also enjoying this for lunch and the seagulls were diving and stealing people's food! We were lucky, we were able to keep ours for ourselves.
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