George Sand - feminism before it was cool

One of the highlights of these two weeks for me, was the study and homestead visit of one of the most prolific and successful French female authors of the 19th century - George Sand. She lived during a time where women were not granted any independant standing in society, and consequently, athough she came from a wealthy family and inherited a sizeable property, all of her belongings were immediately transferred to her husband whom she married at a very young age and with whom she became very unhappy, very quickly. An avid reader, painter and musician, she turned to writing as a means of expression, and after meeting some of the young Paris literary circle of the time, began to publish novels under the male pseudonym. We read her first, very successful novel, Indiana.

During the years that followed, she managed to achieve complete emancipation - legal separation from her husband, the sole custody and raising of her two children and ownership of her family homestead in Nohant - east of Tours. It was this estate that we visited, including a spectacular garden and private family cemetery where she is buried. She had a series of very passionate affairs with other artists of the time, including, Frédéric Chopin which ended badly after many years together. She maintained friendships with such luminaries as authors Balzac, Gustav Flaubert and painter Eugène Delacroix.

It was intoxicating being inside this house which has been restored its original condition, with original furnishing, artworks and literary manuscripts, because her last descendant passed away a "short" while ago in the 1960s. I was impressed with not only Sand's literary genius, but all that she was able to accomplish as a women during this period. And what love affairs she had!! The letters that were written by her and to her are some of the most passionate and moving in all of French literature.

And if this immersion into Sand's life wasn't enough to take my breath away, there was a Chopin concert on the grounds later that afternoon that we attended. Three soloists treated us to some of his best works. I am planning to include George Sand in a future literature course. I was only remotely acquainted with her before this trip and am now smitten.

Descartes - I think, therefore I blog

René Descartes was born in a small town, which now bears his name, located about one hour east of Tours.

As I have been steeped in Humanism and Renaissance philosophy this week, it was quite refreshing to visit Descartes' later philosophy which broke with tradition. In fact he is often considered as the "Father of Modern Philosophy". His house was quite recently turned into a museum and it is very well laid out, situating both the man and his ideas in the larger context of France and of the world. (unfortunately no photos were allowed inside as I was told numerous times as I instinctively reached for my new favourite thing - my digital camera!). I bought a copy of his Discours sur la Méthode and will try to read it within his context as well as my modern day one, since he lays out some very interesting "methods" for examining life and for conducting one's self. We'll see how this goes...

Pierre de Ronsard - a rose by any other name

Also known as the "prince of poets", Ronsard was a Renaissance poet in the Touraine region who very much subscribed to the ideal of carpe diem. His most well known poems evoke roses to represent the fleeting nature of love, beauty and life:

"Ah, love me, love!

we may be happy yet,

And gather roses, while 'tis called to-day" (1550)

In addition to his own body of work, Ronsard made an exceptional contribution to French letters which is still revered to this day: he was co-founder of La Pléaide (1549) which began as a group of French poets who wanted to raise the status of poetry and literature in French. Today's Pléaide represents the best of French literature throughout the centuries, published in green leather-bound tomes for about 50 euros a book. Collectors buy and sell editions and they are popular Christmas presents.

Although he was not widely read nor exalted during his time, his poems experienced a revival in the 18th and 19th century where his lyricism inspired and often fuelled French literaries of the Romantic period.

We visited his home, a former priory where he held the post of prior for many years until his death. The grounds were beautiful, but show remnants of the rampant WWII bombings that occurred all over France during the German occupation.

From Past to Present - the literary tradition continues in Tours

In addition to studying representative authors of the Romantic period, and the Renaissance who lived in and around Tours, our group had the opportunity to meet with a contemporary author, François Bon, who came to the university to discuss his own literary heritage and how he has been influenced by the giants of letters who came before him. A hometown boy from Tours, he was certainly following in some big footsteps. He has travelled widely and was very excited that there was a Canadian in the group as he just returned from a month in Montréal, Toronto and Winnipeg where he had discovered some French Canadian authors he did not know. I was very glad to have pulled out the "Canadian nationality card" here! He wrote me a very nice inscription on the cover of one of his novels which I am eager to read. I was reminded once again and how the education system in Europe is superior to ours in North America in certain ways. Based on the classic system (le système latin), it is virtually impossible to pass le bac (exam after high school) without knowing the major literary and historical periods in France and be able to cite key authors and works. Much of the work done in le lycée français is accomplished at the university level in North America sometimes years after high school.

Sleeping Beauty before Disney

No visit to château country is complete without a trip and tour of the Château d'Ussé. This is the original castle of Sleeping Beauty, where in 1696 Charles Perrault found his inspiration for one of his greatest and most longlasting (cf. Disney) conte de fées. It has the classic castle style - turrets, towers, gardens and a moat. The woods are suitably lush, yet mystical as they reveal a countryside that is a paradise to both cyclists and vintners.

Inside, the rooms are staged to showcase the different centuries that this majestic dwelling has seen occupants. A climb up "la Belle au Bois Dormant" tower reveals the complete tale developed in picture windows and hidden scenes. This was certainly a highlight for Sophie, and for me too. It is easy to see how Perrault was so inspired.

The gardens are a (much) smaller version of the trianon at Versailles. Judging by the number of cyclist groups we encountered on our visit, I would say that this château figures prominantly on every organized tourist circuit. And given that la Tour de France is now in full swing, I expect many bicycles to be pulled out of storage and taken out for a randonnée sur le pays de la Loire.

Da Vinci - Renaissance Man par excellence

This region of la Touraine is rich in humanist tradition and history. A philosophy with roots in ancient Greek and Latin thought, humanism saw its épanouissement during the Renaissance as philosophers, men of letters, science and medicine all looked at the definition of a "self made man" and how the values of the human being and life on earth were of utmost importance. Mon ami Rabelais, of course, was a part of the renewed motto of carpe diem, live life to the fullest. In the true spirit of humanism, there is no better, nor more well known figure associated with this time period than Leonardo Da Vinci. It just so happens that he spent the last three years of his life in a manor, Le Clos de Lucé, in Amboise, about 20 minutes away from Tours. He is buried in the chapel at the château at Amboise where he was a frequent guest of the King.

When we visited his house, it certainly seemed more like a château itself. What a thrill to be in the presence of such a great thinker, who was active in every discipline, from science to literature, to painting, to music. Not only is the house rich in artificacts, many from the epoch, but the garden is a marvel. In between the trees, lakes and lush grass are models of Leonardo's machines - bridges, windmills, pulleys, levers, etc.

While we were taking our tour, I became so overwhelmed with where I was, that I had to sneak off by myself just to breath it all in. Of course, the huge heat wave permeating Western Europe didn't help either! I sat down at "Leonardo's Café" in a shady spot and had the best café crème of my life. All the while, I kept thinking how I must dust off my flute, dig out my watercolours and get some more poems submitted for publication. There's nothing like the Renaissance Man to make you feel like you should be doing more!

How many châteaux can be visited in one weekend (without collapsing)?

I am in full "château" mode since this weekend. From the Middle Ages, through the Renaissance and the 17th Century - there are royal traces throughout the Loire valley. In the large footsteps of Joan of Arc, we explored Chinon (later Rabelais' town), and later Loges (medieval castle complete with dungeon and torture chamber). Pre-Renaissance Kings Charles VII and VIII inhabited the château at Amboise, but it is best known for being the castle of François Ier - the most important King of France during the Renaissance. Châteaux had multiple regal inhabitants during the centuries, and some have displays of furniture for the different époques whereas some have left parts bare.

More to come, including: Le Clos Lucé (the manor where Leonardo Da Vinci spent the last three years of his life) and Le Château d'Ussé (Sleeping Beauty's castle).

In between medieval cobblestones, spiral staircases and dungeon descents, we explored an important modern day French cultural staple - the outdoor market. In France, weekends are notoriously the days for the "grand" markets. In the Kings' bedchamber one minute, the next walking through the colourful covered stands of fish mongers, cheese merchants and the inescapable bread and pastry. However, there is more to the French market than simply food. You can buy your clothes, including underwear, shoes, dishes, baskets, etc., etc. I succumbed to temptation and bought a blouse (that I was even able to try on in a portable "changing room") I have to be "à la mode", of course, and that my one-suitcase wardrobe is getting very tired already! Say nothing of course of the food. Notable specialities of the region include: fromage du chèvre (goat cheese), rillettes (pork slow cooked with spices and eaten cold) and of course le vin (wine)! As I walk through the markets, trying to keep to our timed schedule, I'm alternating between snapping off pictures, trying and buying some samples and running to keep up with the rest of the group. So much for any kind of discretion.