I am no war buff, but I couldn't help being affected by the magnitude of what went down on these shores of Normandy that pivotal day 66 years ago. The landing beaches (les plages du débarquement) look like many other beaches along the French coastline except for the monuments, flags, tanks and other relics of a war, not so distant in the past that it can still evoke strong memories and emotion. As we visited several of these beaches, I was struck by this living museum on the sand that is juxtaposed against the holiday scenes of families and couples picnicking, swimming and playing football on the beach. As we walked along and looked at the rocks, I wondered how many had been covered with blood or been kicked aside by combat boots. It was quite a powerful experience - especially after having seen Saving Private Ryan some years ago and those brutal first 15 minutes of film footage.
It felt a little like "going home" when we visited the Canadian landing beach - Juno Beach, and to see Canadian flags and souvenirs (maple syrup!) sold in the gift shop. Likewise, visiting one of the main American landing beaches - Omaha Beach, was comforting. I can only imagine what memorial services and anniversary commemorations must feel and look like here.
The most thorough experience was Le Mémorial - a museum in Caen dedicated to pre, during and post Battle of Normandy. Beginning with the rise of totalitarian governments and fascism and ending with present day world struggles, this was an excellent 3 hours spent taking a look at an époque that although I was not alive during, certainly has reference points for anyone living in the post-modern era. I was struck by a very vivid comparison I felt between this museum, where there were several groups of German tourists visiting, and Pearl Harbour in Hawaii, which had many Japanese tourists visiting the bombing site and museum while we were there three years ago. It was a strange feeling and I wondered what they must have felt (if anything at all). Of course, you attach no blame, but there is a gut feeling nonetheless...
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