Jacques Cartier and the discovery of Canada in 1534

No self-respecting Canadian can come to Brittany without visiting le manoir de Jacques Cartier just outside of St. Malo, a coastal seaport. After all, he discovered Canada (at least the St. Lawrence Valley up to Montreal) in 1534. I asked if there was a special rate for Canadians to visit the museum - they said non and didn't think it was too funny. Okay, this isn't the first faux pas I have made in France and it likely will not be my last!

Although I already knew the history of Cartier's three voyages, it was interesting to see his house and some of his original navigating instruments. I didn't know that his reputation suffered badly because he was not of noble lineage, and although he could lead an expedition, he could not head up a colonizing mission. Once his discovery had been made and there was no gold or spices in Canada, the King cut him off.

Not far from St. Malo is le Mont St. Michel - a "tidal island" separated from the mainland by a thin strip of road. On the top of the mount is a fortified monastery dating from the 8th century that remained undestroyed during the Hundred Years War because of its strategic location and formidable fortifications. It is a huge tourist attraction and we didn't stay long.

1066 - When England became French

The Battle of Hastings - 1066. William the Conqueror defeated Harold of England and took the throne (as he was promised), thereby changing the course of the English language forever. Fascinating!! French became the language of royalty and the elite in England for many years to come. I am very keen on doing some work with students on the influence of French on the English language, and after taking a course on the history of the English language a couple of years ago, I have wanted very much to see the Bayeux Tapestry, which tells the story of this battle in a hand embroided tapestry over 200 ft long. It was very exciting to stand in its presence! We moved along the sensitively lit room in single file with our hand held walkie talkies giving us the story panel by panel. Of course no photos were allowed, but I did take some in the museum upstairs which had a great timeline and historical explanations as well as some replicas. It's very interesting, because even though this battle is far back in history, even today debates occur over whether the tapestry was created in France or England!

In Caen, where we are staying this week as a central place to visit Normandy and Brittany, there are many traces of King William. You can visit his former château which, alas, only has ruins left, and two of his abbeys that are now used as government buildings and retain their original splendour from the exterior.

July 14 - Happy Bastille Day!

I wasn't expecting a super-duper fireworks display à l'américaine in France for the national holiday. In Canada, the fireworks are certainly modest, but enjoyable, but without a doubt, the USA is the "king" of fireworks. We have often spent July 4 in the states and enjoyed the spectacular shows in small towns and large cities alike.

There was a small parade with a band and the fireworks were better than I thought in the small coastal Norman town of Port Bessin-Huppain where we stood shoulder to shoulder with the local folk on the shore, but the surrealness of standing on a beach in Normandy that had been one of the most significant battle theatres of WWII and watching fireworks while listening to la Marseillaise and Paris cabaret music was beyond comparison.

Vive la France libre!

D-Day - June 6, 1944

I am no war buff, but I couldn't help being affected by the magnitude of what went down on these shores of Normandy that pivotal day 66 years ago. The landing beaches (les plages du débarquement) look like many other beaches along the French coastline except for the monuments, flags, tanks and other relics of a war, not so distant in the past that it can still evoke strong memories and emotion. As we visited several of these beaches, I was struck by this living museum on the sand that is juxtaposed against the holiday scenes of families and couples picnicking, swimming and playing football on the beach. As we walked along and looked at the rocks, I wondered how many had been covered with blood or been kicked aside by combat boots. It was quite a powerful experience - especially after having seen Saving Private Ryan some years ago and those brutal first 15 minutes of film footage.

It felt a little like "going home" when we visited the Canadian landing beach - Juno Beach, and to see Canadian flags and souvenirs (maple syrup!) sold in the gift shop. Likewise, visiting one of the main American landing beaches - Omaha Beach, was comforting. I can only imagine what memorial services and anniversary commemorations must feel and look like here.

The most thorough experience was Le Mémorial - a museum in Caen dedicated to pre, during and post Battle of Normandy. Beginning with the rise of totalitarian governments and fascism and ending with present day world struggles, this was an excellent 3 hours spent taking a look at an époque that although I was not alive during, certainly has reference points for anyone living in the post-modern era. I was struck by a very vivid comparison I felt between this museum, where there were several groups of German tourists visiting, and Pearl Harbour in Hawaii, which had many Japanese tourists visiting the bombing site and museum while we were there three years ago. It was a strange feeling and I wondered what they must have felt (if anything at all). Of course, you attach no blame, but there is a gut feeling nonetheless...

Country driving and flowers

How beautiful the French country is and how wonderful it is to drive along for kilometres past fields of sunflowers, fragrant lavender and patches of poppies. You can't help but imagine the impressionist painters of the 19th century inspired by the vibrant colours in the bright sunlight. Fortunately for all of us who can appreciate their timeless work they weren't speeding by at 110 km/hr as we were!

Au Revoir la Touraine et à la prochaine...

Well, this has certainly been two intense weeks! I have been seduced by the academic language and subjects as well as the countryside and all of its hidden treasures. The program was rigourous, especially in the heat, but I appreciated being able to "squeeze in" as much as possible. It has been wonderful to rediscover literature and history in this milieu and I feel like I have made some good contacts, both personally and professionally. Sophie and Allan also enjoyed the two weeks in the region, although at a much more relaxed pace! Sophie is doing very well in French and she loves being called "Mademoiselle"! They made friends with the hotel owners who very kindly gave us some original art work as a goodbye gift.

After sampling what this beautiful, rich region has to offer I can safely say that this would be a perfect place to have a study abroad program in French. Not only does it have literature, châteaux, wine, a great university and the most standard well respected French language, but it is located about 1.5 hours from Paris. I have made some initial inquiries, brought back some documentation and will keep this in mind for the future.

We're off now for a few days of "rest" and discovery of the northwest regions of la Bretagne et la Normandie.

More Châteaux...

Highlights of some châteaux we have visited:

1. Chenonceau = a castle partially designed by women - most notably Catherine de Medecis, wife of Henri IV and Diane de Poitiers (his mistress!). This is one of the most popular château in the valley and there were lots of people when we were there.

2. Chaumont (my personal favourite) = the château which Catherine de Medecis sold to Diane after Henri IV's death, when she threw her out of Chenonceau.

3. Cheverny = a more modern château which continues to be "lived in". This château is very special because it was the inspiration for le Capitaine Haddock - character in the Tintin series by the Belgian author Hergé. I am a big fan of Tintin, so this was a must-see.

4. Blois = one of the most important château during the Renaissance. Henri III ordered the assassination of The Duc de Guise in this castle.

What a spectacular region this is!